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Shimoni - a lost treasure or a hidden gem ?
Update 8 March 2018
A reader and fellow traveller has commented on this article and offers another article for travellers considering the Kenyan Coastline for their next African Adventure. Please click on link below
Shimoni village overlooking Wasini Island
Whilst recently visiting Kenya as part of a familiarisation trip to the country as guests of the Kenyan Tourism Board (KTB), our intrepid host took us on a journey of discovery to the Southern Coastal town of Shimoni which is abutted by an equally alluring island named Wasini. Shimoni is an adventure tourism treasure chest just waiting to be explored either by land or sea.
On first impression, it is clear that this part of Kenya is impoverished with the classic interpretation coming to mind of how poor rural settlements exist. Shimoni has a small working port that relies on ancient wooden Dhow transport ships to ferry goods to Zanzibar.
Unlike Zanzibar that has capitalised on their history of the African slave trade ….Shimoni has a dark past, a story which one does not hear much about. I had never heard of this place or its horrific history revolving around the early Arab slave trade in Africa but….. I am referring to the Shimoni Slave Caves (pictured right).
The Shimoni Slavery Museum is a historic site that is located in the small village of Shimoni on the south coast of Kenya. The name "Shimoni" is a Swahili word that means " place of a hole" or “Inside the hole". It derived this name due to the existence of a complex network of caves along the seashore that were formed as a result of natural forces.
These underground caves resemble an octopus tentacle that snakes through 5 kilometres of hard coral ground under the village of Shimoni. There is a complex of tunnels that was used during the lucrative slave trade period to confine captured slaves before shipment to the slave market in Zanzibar.
Slave traders from Asia settled in Shimoni as the area was strategically placed on the East African Coast and it was conveniently close to the to the Zanzibar slave market.
Taking a walk through the caves, is an overwhelming experience where one will find chains that are still embedded in the walls, which were used to secure and torture the slaves.
The conditions in the caves are beyond comprehension. The stifling heat is the first thing you feel and one can only imagine what the thousands of slaves must have gone through, confined in the heat, without any fresh water, relying on a trough of sea water which ebbed and flowed with the tide and which posed an additional threat of drowning. Tragically thousands of slaves died in these bat infested caves. What unthinkable atrocities too place...
The local village council has opened the caves to the public in order to fund their restoration and to aid students to further their studies, to purchase medicines for the community, to buy food for the deaf community and for other programs that assist the local population.
Shimoni has grown over the years and today one can find other unique attractions and places of interest to visit. These include the Colonial Cemetery, The British Administrative Building, The Colonial District Commissioners Residence, the Old Jetty Bridge, Kichangani Old Residence, beautiful tropical rainforests, a breath-taking view of the Indian Ocean and marine parks, as well as the Wasini Islands.
Shimoni was also of historic importance to the British during World War One, as it was home to a naval base, a Governor’s office as well as a prison. The Garrison room was bombed by the Germans and the ruins are visible to this day.
Shimoni definitely has potential…it borders Wasini Island and a whole network of smaller islands which are laden with reefs, abundant sea and plant life. It is protected and is a diving and snorkelling treasure trove. The area, home to a Kenyan Naval Base, is not only beautiful but one does feel safe walking the cobbled and sandy streets.
A walking tour around the village reveals historical sights which are slowly decaying and modern shack dwellings that are encroaching on these sites…it makes one think that a bit of investment and effort by the local community to protect and maintain these sights is all that is needed to preserve these attractions which are so essential to attract tourists to this village.
We snorkelled the Mpunguti Island reefs that are approximately 10 kms from Wasini in a southerly direction and in view of Tanzania. The ocean has a myriad of different hues of blue denoting the depths and reflecting the raw natural beauty of the area. The abundant sea and plant life on this reef is astounding and one feels perfectly safe. Despite its location in the middle of the Indian Ocean, there are no major predators and the locals comically describe the small reef sharks as vegetarians. One is likely to see bottle nose and humpback dolphins as well as swim with whale sharks. An outing to the reefs requires an entire day and the experience of being transported on a 20 year old Dhow is absolutely worth it.
A late lunch on Wasini Island with excellent sea food, chicken and curries as well as very cold beer wraps up the day…we visited local accommodations and chatted to the local tribal leaders before heading to our comfortable hotel in Diani Beach for the night
Visit Kenya, you will not regret it.
Words and images Paul Godwin
Friday, March 31, 2017
The Masai Mara – a magical adventure playground
Getting into the Masai Mara can be achieved by road or air. We were privileged to fly in by air in a Cessna Caravan. The flight - only 1 hour from Wilson’s airport in Nairobi as opposed to an 8 hour overland trek in a safari van, meant we were still fresh and able to begin our exploration of the bush.
Our accommodation left us
speechless - set into a hillside with 360 degree panoramic views of the Mara - the Serena Mara Hotel is perfectly situated
with clear views over the famous Mara River, which during the migration period
must be an absolutely mind blowing sight to behold.
The Airstrip is about 4km
from the hotel and is what one would expect of a rustic small airport shelter
….including a toilet block. To the amazement of visitors, officials in charge
of the airport have to regularly chase warthog, wildebeest and buffalo that
graze in the area and have no apparent fear of aircraft.
The Mara is all about
spotting game ……and there is plenty of it. Visiting this area in March, which
is actually out of season, did not lessen our chances of seeing big herds of elephant,
buffalo, hippo and numerous other wildlife.
A hot air balloon ride topped
off with a bush breakfast is also a bucket list must. An early five in the
morning start is essential but the small sacrifice is worth it and once aloft
in the magic of the still dawn morning….you fly with the sunrise at your back, soaked
in amazing colours of the bushveld and all one can see is the marvellous game
hiding in the nooks and crannies of the bush, and what a treat to see the shy
animals like the hyena, jackal and hippo…one
hippo incidentally did not take kindly to a blast of gas into the hot air balloon
and caused him or her to scamper through the swamp…so now I can say…It’s true
they run very very fast…..
The balloon only travels approximately
15 feet off the ground and rises to miss the trees. One really feels a part of
nature and it unlocks an emotion in your body that is quite extraordinary. An
average flight takes about 45 minutes and flies in a general direction so there
is no precise science on where you will end up. This means the ground crew have
to watch and anticipate your landing spot as well as fire up the breakfast ! The
bush breakfast held on an open plain with tall grass, ensures you keep one eye
open as it is the perfect hunting ground for lion. Our pilot Mike, an American
from Alaska is sold on Kenya and its easy to see why. He has been flying
balloons since the 70’s and is a great character.
The Masai Mara and in particular
the area traversing the hotel we stayed in the Mara Serena Hotel, is the much
publicised and televised location of the annual migration and our guide takes
you to the crossing points which are always full of crocodile and hippo waiting
for the next meal.
There are numerous types of
lodges in the area including an abundance of tented camps and the area caters
for all types of budgets.
Whilst in the Mara it is
important to visit a Masai cultural village. Here you will be educated on the
story of the Masai, eloquently narrated by a village elder after which there is
a question and answer session – if you don’t ask a question you have to drink a
bowl of cows blood, needless to say our group asked many questions. We are then
guided around the village and shown how to make fire and how the huts are
constructed. Afterwards we are taken to the Masai Market which is basically a
circle in the village with a myriad of ornaments and trinkets available for
purchase. Bartering is the name of the game and one can pick up a good deal in
this manner. The Masai are a proud and intelligent people and they embrace the
tourist dollar without losing the values of the Masai’s histroy and culture
which is vehemently protected and promoted. Donations and profits from the
village we visited had enabled a nursery school to be built in the village.
An interesting fact about the
Masai is that they are citizens of both Kenya and Tanzania and can travel freely
across both borders. They are also allowed to wear their traditional clothing
and weapons wherever they go.
Another must for a visitor to
this area is to enjoy a Bush Sundowner. Drinks and snacks on top of a hill overlooking
the Mara as the sun goes down is exhilarating. Watched over by an armed Masai
Warrior in full regalia who positions himself on a hillock and an armed guard
with a perfectly conditioned .303 Lee Enfield rifle keeping a sharp lookout,
our group enjoyed the scene whilst being caroused by a very talented guitar
player with a voice as smooth as silk….detail is everything.
One thing we learnt in Kenya
is that the hospitality industry takes no short cuts. The service everywhere is
first class and there is a sheer joy in the faces of staff and management while
they do their jobs. The guards are a very good idea….. remembering we are in
the wild….. and as we leave a hyena comes out of the bushes to greet us. Fortunately
we were all on board, but our host was still tidying up !
The Kenyan Tourism Board
employees also exude an exciting and loving passion for their country and the
promotion thereof. The Board’s mantra is Pride of Africa. To this end it is not
hard to see Kenya as the leading tourist destination of Africa in the very near
future just on service deliverables. I also attribute this to a collective
intitiative shown by the board employees and companies they interact with, who
have a willingness to cooperate for the good of Kenya as a whole.
All that is left to say is….consider
Kenya and the Masai Mara as a holiday destination. It is a life changing
experience that one will not regret and Kenya is waiting for you with open arms.
A few useful tips:
Carry a square pronged adaptor for charging your phone
or laptops
Carry US Dollars
Take Malaria tablets
Yellow fever vaccination certificate mandatory
No Visa required for South Africans for up to 30 days
(these rules are subject to change – so please check Kenyan Government website
for updates)
Do not take photographs of Official Government
Buildings and other key point locations and security personnel
Vehicles drive on the left-hand side of the road
Do not drink tap water, hotels provide bottled water
All signage is in English (Road signs and advertising)
Swahili is the main local language but many people
speak English
Smoking in public places including sidewalks is
prohibited
Wi-Fi is very good and free at most hotels and lodges
Leave only your footprints
Footnote:
This is the second of four stories written by Paul
Godwin on his recent trip and experience to Kenya as part of a familiarization
team from South Africa and guests of the Kenyan Tourism Board to promote
tourism, professional conferencing and tourism business opportunities, stories
to follow:
Day tripping
in Nairobi
South Coast
Magic – Diani and surrounds
Shimoni a place with dreams
Words and photographs - Paul Godwin/Nerve Communications
Words and photographs - Paul Godwin/Nerve Communications
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